Visit to Neychen Dongkola- A Sacred Place from Where Relics are Never Stolen

 

A Deadly Pilgrimage Plan

On 10th December 2021, I woke up as early as 4.30 A.M. In the cold of winter, with morning breeze piercing my bone, I rushed to Changlimithang with my close friend who booked the ticket. It was my first time booking a local tour bus to visit five sacred places in the Paro one of which was Neychen Dongkola.

The old coaster bus rumbled and roared with occasional reluctance of clutch on the Thimphu Paro-Highway. Around 6.30 a.m, we crossed Shaba School in Paro and were just few kilometers below Drakarpo when clutch refused to cooperate while shifting gear. Our bus sled backwards and rear-ended into the drain saving us from being airlifted to Emergency Ward of Thimphu Hospital. With fear in mind for almost meeting death and relief of being escaped from near death, passengers booked taxi to visit the Great Sacred Buddhist Site Dongkorla. Accident or no accident, people seemed to have great faith in blessing of Neychen Dongkola.

Journey Towards Dongkola

Journey from Paro took around more than an hour by road. Given the condition of road, it will not be pliable in summer due to heavy rain and will not be pliable either in peak winter due to snow. Autumn and spring will be be the right time to undertake pilgrimage. Dongkola is a high pass between Thimphu and Paro located around 3370 meters above the sea level. Once you are up there, you feel like you are viewing the beauty of Bhutan’s hills and landscape from an Airplane parked on the cloud. Dongkola is truly a sacred place on the cloud.

Dongkola-The Name

The sacred site of Dongkola is said to be found in many Bhutan’s Buddhist scriptures for its sacredness. The Dongkola literally means ‘Face to Face Pass’. This site is founded by Tertoen Tshering Dorji who was one of the foremost students of Lama Rinchen Choedhor. Lama Rinchen Choedor in turn was said to be disciple of one of the son or incarnation of Tertoen Pema Lingpa. Lama Rinchen Choedor founded the Mendrup Goemnba on a hillock below Dongkoka. Dongkola faces the Mendup Goemba. The Goemba of Guru and Disciple is found be facing each other, hence the name Dongkola.

How was Neychen Dongkola Found

Lama Rinchen Chador along with disciples were meditating at the Mendrup Lhakhang. Lama Rinchen Choedhor saw flickering of butter lamp for many nights from the Dongkola. He sent one of his foremost disciples Tshering Dorji to check it out. Tshering Dorji found a statue of Lord Buddha. The statue is believed to be one of the treasures revealed by Tertoen Pema Lingpa in Bumthang at the behest of Choekhor Deb. The statue was believed to have flown to the Dongkorla.

Legend: Why People should steal things from Dongkola Goempa

The legend has it that a thief stole a bronze vessel from the temple. The thief tried to run away with the vessel but found himself circumambulating the chorten (stupa) below the temple. As the dawn broke, caretaker woke up. The thief then tried to leave the vessel and run away but his hand got struck in vessel. He had to cut his hand to run away.

Recently, it is believed that a cup stolen from the Goempa miraculously came back.

The Sacred Relics

The sacred relics includes the Budhha Statue, Hand of that unfortunate thief inside bronze vessel, 108 (minus few broken ones) chorten, Tashi Gomang amongst others.

Best Offering to Take

Many people took various offerings of their choices like oil, butter, flowers etc. However, I was told that best offering one could make is water as Dongkola has no water source. If you offer bottled mineral water or clean water, it can be used to make water offering in the morning as well as monks can use as drinking water.

Gratitude

I am grateful to my friend for persuading me to visit Nyechen Dongkola and graciously packing additional lunch and breakfast for me.

Disclaimer: This is not a research work. It is just based on whatever was heard by me during my visit to Neychen Dongkola.