Visit to the Sublime Self-Created Hill Swayambunath in Nepal in 2019

Every Bhutanese who visited Nepal probably never missed these two sites in Katmandu. One is Jarung Khasor and another is Phagma Singkuen which is locally known as Swayambunath located in the western Kathmandu. I consulted Google Rinpoche to know about this place. He told me that Stupa is dome shaped at the base above which is a cubical structure. The cubical structure is painted with eyes of Buddha looking in all four directions. I imagine that probably it is watching deeds of all citizens of Nepal while occasionally offering protection for those who come to seek it. I was told that there are two ways to each the stupa one via road and other via stairs from the base of the hill. While at the stairs, you will see local people either preparing to lit butter lamp or lighting the butter lamp. At first I mistook all of them for pious Buddhists trying to light their ways to the enlightenment. However, reality couldn’t be further as most of them are doing religious business to further their livelihood. The price for each readymade butter lamp is minimum of 10 rupee. Then there are other people on the side of stairs selling both Buddhist and Hindu religious items. Buying them on regular basis could make one an expert negotiator.

Just before reaching the top of the stairs is sign asking for entry fee. Rs. 200 for foreigners and Rs.50 for people from the SAARC countries. Two of us pretended to be locals and just went pass the sign board giving no damn to prying eyes of the collector. However, I found one white tourist sitting there visibly pissed off. As soon as you reached the top, you are greeted by the large Vijra (Dorji). Next thing you see is two eyes of Buddha looking down at you. I almost feel guilty for cheating entry fee collector. Given the time constraint, we didn’t visit many temples or sacred statues that are said to be there. Not even asked why two tower-like structures are built on either side of the stupa. Few circumambulations later, we offered some notes of rupee on the lap some statues. Like anyone else, I rang the large bell hung there as I prepared to descend the stairs though I don’t know why people ring it. I joked to my colleague that it is probably a way of saying that you reached there. Signing attendance sheet could be too modern even for Buddha. As we descended, we found same white lady more pissed off than before. Seemed that collector demanded the entry fee for going up to the stupa. She blasted the collector saying that it ‘is shameful and so bad collecting money from people to visit place of worship.’ According to her, she has never seen such things anywhere. Suddenly, my thoughts rushed to the gate of National Memorial Chorten in Bhutan which once made entry fee system. As quick as system was made, it was abolished. Would it be because tourists objected to the commercialisation of the sacred place?

Here, nothing irritated me more than monkeys which are everywhere starting from fighting on the trees to shitting on the stupas. Besides, wastes are thrown on the rock where Buddhist mantras are written. I really thought it would be better to worship waste than reciting a mantra. I wondered why people like to visit this place. Curiosity led me to consult Google Rinpoche again. As common with any sacred old Buddhist places, mythology seems to be the main basis of the sacredness. According to the legend, entire valley was once filled with enormous lake out of which grew a lotus. The valley is hence called Swayambu or self-created. Later the stupa was built. This place is also called Monkey Hill. It is said that Lord Manjushri had a vision of lotus at the Swayambu. He travelled there to worship it. To make it more suitable to settlement and accessible to pilgrims, he cut the gorge. The water drained out of the lake, leaving the valley in which Kathmandu now lies. The Lotus was said to have transformed into a hill and the flower became the stupa. No doubt, Buddhist flocked this place. As for the monkeys, it is said that Manjushri kept long hair due to which lice grew. The head lice transformed into the monkey.

As for me, next time I visit the Swayambunath, I will take biscuit and chips to feed monkey. After all, nobody wants to mess with lice of Lord Jampelyang with blasphemy. Hopefully, in pleasing monkey, I please His Holiness, the Lord of Wisdom.